VUSCICHÈ AND THE NEW COLLECTION FEATURING AW.22
FELL IN LOVE WITH THE LOOM
There are some things about me that I want to share. I’m not in Milan, or Paris or Tokyo, I’m in the Abruzzo countryside where life feels different. Especially post covid where there is a sense of diversity and inclusivity.
My vision for the rural environment is where terms like precious and luxury mean comfort, washable, easy and honest.
I’m learning a responsible use of territorial resources.
My starting point has been so far the antique fabrics from 19th and 20th century, and I spend time to understand how to deal with them with available local resources.
Regenerating fabrics … such as coloured wool blankets from Abruzzo “right” or “reverse”, fringed and decorated with floral or geometric motifs, is something very nourishing for the mind from a structural point of view, but especially from an aesthetic perspective. Finding a language, a style where it can be accepted as ‘sustainable’ is challenging.
Designing within limitations.
I started from here, from a strange anxiety of wanting to collect these ancient blankets and pieces of fabric to study and challenge their essence. To this was added the desire to search for special fabrics in natural fibres. Results? Some fabrics are simply treated with washes and dyes, partially industrial or artisanal, other fabrics have been designed ad hoc for the collection, they are original, mostly are made with stock yarns. This is a great recovery of leftover material from other productions.
The thought behind this collection is to rethink the way of producing, giving space to people more than to machines, to the natural material that ages and transforms, to processes that we can face, to transform waste resource.
Regenerated fabric: vintage fabric that is treated in different ways to be able to come back to life.
** regenerated double jacquard wool, antique fabrics, my peculiarity: deals with washing, shaving and fraying, many hours of manual work on a garment;
** regenerated cotton or regenerated wool cloth faces washes or dyes;
** regenerated damask or silk damask faces washes or dyes;
*felted wool: designed by me, it is felted in 3×3 sheets. The patterns are designed to reduce waste to a minimum; linen and hemp mix : need to be washed and dyed to reach softness and keep a warm soft hand;
washed garment : often we rewash the garments as a post treatment…
because they get a different shape and it enables us to manage better the raw cut edges. This is the main reason why we don’t use adhesives for clothing, padding or other trappings that prevent the shape from experiencing transformation. All the garments come back to the studio for a final check.
Often the word sartorial frightens, craftsmanship even more, handmade is even perceived as a sound of imperfection, but I love imperfections, fraying, material sections, raw cuts, they are honest and have a poetry that brings you closer to matter as it is presented.
Most of the garments are supplied in Abruzzo, a part from the ‘ecocashmere’ and the wool cloth that comes from Tuscany. The collection is produced by local workers and the finishings are made by hand.